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Dry Sump Tank, 508mm tall, 127mm diameter


Dry sump tank 5″ (127mm) x 20″ (508mm), allow 22″ (559mm) for breathers, comes with -12 male ends.
Capacity – approx 5L.
No Base Plate.
Fully splitable washable tank with built in baffles.
Can be used with Vauxhall, Duratec, EcoBoost & Hayabusa engines.

Due to the extremely clever design & complex baffle system, we designed this tank specifically to cope with the problems that can be associated with the Hayabusa engine, therefore we have designed it slightly differently to a normal dry sump tank. It has been made taller than normal and there is additional baffling to further improve air separation from the oil (please do not confuse this with other similar looking tanks). As far as using a circular tank is concerned, it is far more efficient for the returning air and oil mix to be spun around the wall of the round tank, so the air separates out and only oil can then reach the bottom of the tank.
OS-DS-TK-5.0-12 Dry sump tank

Note for Duratec engines:
They require a slightly bigger oil capacity in the tank than engines which have cam belts. The reason for this is that the area where the chain runs allows oil to accumulate in this area and under certain conditions you could actually accumulate as much as 1.5 litres in this area. The system we have developed with Titan is a twin scavenge with an extremely efficient pump both on pressure and scavenge, so the oil is less able to accumulate in any sections of the engine, either when the engine is under braking or acceleration as the oil is then evacuated at the front or rear scavenge depending on conditions. So a 5 litre tank capacity we have found is sufficient even on our high specification engines. This does not mean that your oil system will not contain more oil, as this will depend on the length of your oil pipes, oil coolers, oil filter and any other components in the system. It simply means the tank itself will hold 5 litres and the oil should be checked on our tank with the engine running or immediately after stopping that the oil level is just below or level with the top baffle (and not above).

Mounting Suggestion:
We have found the best way to mount all dry sump tanks is to either use or make some kind of cup for the base of the tank that has some kind of foam insulation or silicon and mount the cup to the chassis. Then sit the tank into it or make some simple brackets that locate the tank in 3 or 4 places around the edge of the base of the tank. These are again covered in a rubber or foam solution, then a foam pad fitted to the underside of the tank. We then use a large jubilee clip or something similar as high up as possible on the tank, which we cover with a heat shrink sleeving and then mount brackets onto the jubilee clip which are fitted to the chassis in one or two places.

Important Note:

Never to use forged 90-degree couplings. They create cavitation due to the fact that they prevent free flow, basically the problem is the coupling effectively has 2 opposing drills. This means that when the oil is fed at pressure instead of going through a smooth curve as it would with a swept coupling, the oil reaches the end of the drilling, some of the oil will pass around the corner and some will bounce back. We have seen engines fail by simply the addition of one forged coupling anywhere in the oil system, so we never recommend the use of this type of coupling because the only way to find out will be to see if your engine destroys itself.

OS-DS-TK-5.0-12 Dimensions

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